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A new peer-reviewed study sheds light on how certain fragrance ingredients pass through the skin, giving scientists and regulators a clearer picture of consumer exposure. Conducted by researchers at the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) and An-eX Analytical Services Ltd, the study examined three commonly used salicylates—ethyl salicylate, pentyl salicylate, and (Z)-3-hexenyl salicylate—which are often found in scented lotions, perfumes, and personal care products. The findings provide important insights into how different factors affect absorption, including the product type and application. (Read the full study.)

The research, published in Toxicology In Vitro, used human skin in vitro to measure how much of these fragrance ingredients penetrate the skin and how they distribute through its layers. This method, known as in vitro testing, allows scientists to study absorption without human or animal testing. (RIFM does not conduct animal studies for any of its human health endpoints). The study found that chemical structure plays a key role—some salicylates absorb more easily than others due to differences in their molecular makeup. Additionally, the type of product matters: lotions, creams, and sprays can affect how quickly and how much of a fragrance ingredient gets into the skin.

One of the study’s key findings is that occlusion—when the skin is covered, such as by clothing, bandages, or high humidity—can significantly increase absorption. This means that someone applying a scented lotion and then putting on tight clothing may absorb more of the fragrance ingredient than someone leaving their skin exposed to the air. These details help scientists make more accurate risk assessments, ensuring that products are safe for long-term use.

“Our goal is to provide the most realistic data possible to evaluate consumer exposure,” said RIFM Principal Scientist Kaushal Joshi, PhD, DABT, Reproductive Toxicology, the study’s lead author. “By studying absorption under different conditions, we can refine safety assessments and ensure that fragrances in personal care products are used at enjoyable and safe levels.”

The findings may help regulatory agencies and product manufacturers better understand how fragrance ingredients behave on the skin and lead to more refined safety assessments. As scientists continue to refine absorption models, studies like this bring greater confidence that the latest research in skin science supports the safe use of the fragrances we enjoy daily.

Watch: How to Use the Fragrance Material Safety Resource Center